Lulworth, Dorset

16th - 18th November 2007

 

 

Situated half way between Weymouth and Bournemouth, nestled within the Purbecks, lie the villages of East and West Lulworth which include 5 miles of the most beautiful coastline in England. Lulworth Cove is a cove on the Jurassic Coast World Heritage Site in Dorset. The cove, a perfect horseshoe-shaped bay created by the sea hollowing out the soft clays to reach the harder chalk behind, is one of the finest examples of such a landform in the world, and is a popular tourist location, with over 1 million visitors a year. Its popularity as a tourist attraction is also affected by its proximity to Durdle Door and other important Jurassic Coast sites. Another bay is forming behind Lulworth at Stair Hole and half a mile west lies the famous Durdle Door, a perfect coastal arch.

 

Walking up the hillside away from the YHA, the last building on the right hand side, in School Lane.

 

Stair Hole and The Crumple, just next to Lulworth Cove.

 

Stair Hole and The Crumple.

 

Despite taking leave for Friday, 16th November, I got away only around 13h30 from Royston. Via the M25, I eventually picked up the M3 down towards Southampton and Bournemouth but arrived in Lulworth after dark. I popped down to the Castle Inn, for a meal. This being the last weekend outing of the year, interest was at a premium and the weekend was heavily booked. The YHA accommodation at Lulworth Cove is a single storey purpose-built timber building on the edge of the tranquil fishing village of West Lulworth. Surrounded by fields and wonderful views of the Dorset hills, it’s a mile’s walk to the oyster-shaped Lulworth Cove and dramatic coastline.The official address of the venue, which we had visited some years before, was as follows: School Lane, West Lulworth, Wareham, Dorset BH20 5SA. Yes, numbers were up compared to dismal turn-outs in recent months. Martin's final details read as follows:

"Suggested Room Allocation(good earplugs are recommended)

The hostel is currently full, but there may be some late changes if we get any last minute changes, but this is the best layout I can come up with. "

 

Name

Sleeping arrangements

Name

Sleeping arrangements

Tim Porter

Room 1 x 6

Bonnie Parker

Room 4 x 5

Gordon Farquhar

Room 1 x 6

Jill Paul

Room 4 x 5

Peter Hartman

Room 1 x 6

Ruth West

Room 4 x 5

Peter Groves

Room 1 x 6

Nadine Matthias

Room 4 x 5

John Robertson

Room 1 x 6

Jaqui Rumble

Room 4 x 5

Conaugh Parker

Room 1 x 6

 

 

 

 

Phil Newton

Room 5 x 4

Andy Perkins

Room 2 x 6

Anne Young

Room 5 x 4

Susanne Mitchell

Room 2 x 6

Anna Askels

Room 5 x 4

Danny

Room 2 x 6

Bernie

Room 5 x 4

Nadine

Room 2 x 6

 

 

Gillie & Scott

Room 2 x 6

Rob Irving

Room 6 x 4

James

Room 2 x 6

Julie Hastings

Room 6 x 4

 

 

Dave Colli

Room 6 x 4

 

 

Judy

Room 6 x 4

Tony Regent

Room 3 x 5

 

 

Peter Wise

Room 3 x 5

Chris Platten & baby Matthew

Room 7 x 4

Joyce Wise

Room 3 x 5

Angelica Platten

Room 7 x 4

Bob Gaskell

Room 3 x 5

Vanda Ralevska

Room 7 x 4

Lynn Wallace

Room 3 x 5

Martin Lighten

Room 7 x 4

 

B&B

Peter Matthews

Kathy

Julie’s friend

Julie’s friend

 


 

Walking west from Lulworth Cove towards Durdle Door, as Man O' War Cove appears on the left.

 

Tanya and Tammy above Durdle Door.

 

Julie's "mysterious" two friends were due to arrive early the next morning, as they had a prior engagement the Friday evening. It turns out that they got up at crack of dawn and arrived promptly at around 08h00, only to find us chomping away at our English breakfasts. Clearly, they had been misinformed and had to sit around waiting for us. We were split up into several groups, considering the unusually large contingent, which probably accounted for the slow start, which invariably is at 9 o'clock. Tanya and Tammy were a breath of fresh air, though, and really pleasant. From School Lane, a path led up Bindon Hill away from the hostel towards the coast. This hill is the site of tumuli. A tumulus (plural tumuli) is a mound of  earth and stones raised over a grave or graves. Tumuli are also known as barrows, burial mounds, or kurgans, and can be found throughout much of the world. Once at the top, we gained a view of Lulworth Cove and descended down to a small harbour at the cove itself. Lulworth Cove is at the very end of Main Road. Not far from here is Stair Hole and The Crumple, located just next to the cove.

 

Durdle Beach, the upper section of the steep path up Swyre's Head and Bat's Head to the rear.

 

Durdle Door and the beach.

 

The path rises steeply up Swyre's Head, just above Durdle Beach.

 

Ascending Swyre's head, looking back towards Durdle Door.

 

The Jurassic Coast is a World Heritage Site on the English Channel. The site stretches from Orcombe Bay near Exmouth in East  Devon to Old Harry Rocks near Swanage in East Dorset, a distance of 153 kilometres (95 mi). Chartered in 2001, the Jurassic coast was the second wholly-natural World Heritage Site to be designated in the United kingdom. Its entire length can be walked on the  South West Coast Path - this was the path we were on. Passing the Heritage Centre, from the West Lulworth car park, on a path, the walk then took us over the rise to the west of Lulworth Cove, down towards Durdle Door and Durdle Beach. En route, Durdle Door Holiday park (campsite) appears on the right hand side. The next ascent is up Swyre's Head and down to Bat's Hole, followed by yet another climb up to Bat's Head. Though the distance is not that great, the steep inclines provide a challenge nonetheless. Beyond Bat's Head, The Warren is the remains of an old Celtic field system. Here the turf is springy underfoot, not as steep, so we made good progress, until we reached the obelisk-shaped beacon, where we stopped for lunch.

 

Further up Swyre's Head, Durdle Beach and behind it, Man O' War Cove, appear.

 

Descending Swyre's Head towards Bat's Hole.

 

View from Bat's Head, looking westwards.

 

Swyre's Head, Durdle Door and the beach at Bat's Hole, as viewed from Bat's Head, looking east.

 

Another view of the coastline from Bat's Head.

 

View of Bat's Head on the ascent up to The Warren.

 

It was at the beacon that we met English actor Alun Armstrong en route, resulting in a photo-shoot and a bit of chit-chat from our group, notably Julie Hastings. After being asked:  "What are you doing here?" he responded:  "Walking the dog". Well, he was indeed. Alun, probably accustomed to the attention, took it all in his stride. Alun Armstrong made his debut in the 1971 movie Get Carter and has since worked regularly in British stage and television productions.  On television, Armstrong has played the character Brian Lane in the highly popular BBC drama New Tricks.  Armstrong spent nine years with the Royal Shakespeare Company at Startford upon Avon and London  He has been nominated for the Laurence Olivier Award six times and won in 1994, for Best Actor in a Musical for his performance of Sweeney Todd in the musical of the same name.  Armstrong is perhaps best known for his ingenious performance as Thénardier in the original London production of Les Misérables in October 1985 with Sue Jane Tanner alongside him as Mme. Thénardier, for which he was also nominated for a Laurence Oliver Award for Best Actor in a Musical.

 

Julie Hastings posing with English actor Alun Armstrong, during a chance meeting at the navigational beacon - Photo taken by Vanda Ralevska

 

Though some of the group turned back at this point, we pressed on a bit, as far as the old coastguard cottages at White Nothe. Here you can turn left to go out onto the headland with views to Weymouth, Portland Harbour and the Isle of Portland. White Nothe (the name comes from ‘White Nose’) is the most westerly of the steep limestone hills on this section of coast.

 

The obelisk-shaped navigation beacon along The Warren.

 

On the way back, view eastwards towards Bat's Head, with Bat's Hole below.

 

The beach at Bat's Hole, with the ascent up Swyre's Head up ahead.

 

The eroded path, whilst descending Bat's Head towards Swyre's Head.

 

Another view of Durdle Door and Durdle Beach.

 

Durdle Door.

 

In the evening, after a meal at the up-market Castle Inn, where School Lane joins Main Road, near the youth hostel, John Robertson and I walked down to the harbour and watched the Scotland World Cup qualifying game against Italy on TV in a local pub. The only other real interest stemmed from two Scottish fellas in kilts, whose initial enthusiasm waned as soon as it became obvious that the Scots weren't going to make it. Returning later to the YHA, Dave & Rob were in the process of delivering their usual brand of music we all love best.

   

Evening entertainment at the YHA, courtesy of duo Dave and Rob - Photos by Vanda Ralevska.

 

Fortunately, weather conditions were near perfect for the walk because the next day it rained at Lulworrth Cove.  Dave Colli's partner Judy needed a lift back, so we drove via Corfe Castle where we stopped for tea and cake. I dropped off Judy at her home in Essex and left my car at the tube station, taking a tube into London from Loughton, as I had tickets to see Jan Garbarek's band at the Royal Festival Hall.

 


 

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Links to other websites:

 
  • Lulworth Cove - how the coastline was formed - wiki

  • Jurassic Coastline - wiki

  • Durdle Door - wiki

  • West Lulworth Youth Hostel, School Lane - website

  • Castle Inn, Lulworth - website

  • Lulworth Heritage Centre - website

  • Durdle Door and Man O'War Panorama - website

  • The Official Guide to the South-West Coast Path - website

 

On the way back towards Bat's Hole across The Warren, passing the obelisk-shaped navigation beacon en route.