Edale Valley Walk,

Peak District

16th - 18th July 2010

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View across Edale Valley near the River Noe, south of Edale.

View across Edale Valley towards Kinder Scout from below MamTor.

The route that had been planned for the Saturday walk was new to me and one I wholly approved of, not that it was down to me. It would involve the partial circumnavigation of the Edale Valley on either side of the River Noe. Leaving Fieldhead Campsite heading south after breakfast, along the road that crosses under the railway bridge, turning right at the Hope Road towards Barber Booth, we then picked up a path that crossed the River Noe towards Hardenclough Farm. Instead of following the path that leads directly up the hillside past Coldside, towards Mam Tor, where it emerges adjacent to the road from Barber Booth, we took a path to the left towards Greenlands below Cold Side. After passing through a large farm gate, the path takes a gentle ascent towards Hollins Cross and the Great Ridge between Mam Tor and Lose Hill, where it joins the 3km path along the ridge between the two. From here we were able to view the town of Castleton in the White Peaks and Peveril castle above the town. This ridge is the dividing line between the White Peak (Limestone) on the Castleton side to the south and the Dark Peak (Millstone Grit) on the Edale side to the north. The ridge itself is Millstone Grit and Shale. Hollins Cross is the lowest point on the ridge and is therefore a popular route taken with casual walkers either wishing to cross from one side to the other, or to start a walk along the ridge. It was also the traditional route from Castleton to Edale. Coffins from Edale were taken over Hollins Cross to hope church until a church was constructed in Edale, leading to the nickname of the "coffin road" for this route.

The Celts were the first people to settle in the Castleton area. On Mam Tor, also known as the shivering mountain, are the remains of a Celtic hill fort on summit, an enclosure of 16 acres at an altitude of 1700ft. The Celts were displaced by the Romans who started mining the rich lead veins, bringing prosperity to the area. Shortly after 1066, William the Conqueror started building castles all over the country and the one at Castleton was given to his alleged illegitimate son, William Peveril in 1086, and was so-named Peveril Castle. The keep was added later, in 1176. It never saw battle and was occupied as a dwelling until 1480. The village developed under the protection of the castle. Whatever his paternity, William Peverel was a favourite of the Conqueror. He was greatly honoured after the Norman Conquest, receiving over a hundred holdings in central England from the king. In 1086, the Domesday Book records William as holding substantial land (162 lordships), collectively called the Honour of Peverel, in Nottinghamshire and Derbyshire, including Nottingham Castle.

Castleton later prospered from lead mining; the Odin Mine, one of the oldest lead mines in the country, is situated 1.5 kilometres west of the village. A number of caverns were created or enlarged as a result, these being Peak Cavern, Blue John Cavern, Speedwell Cavern and Peak Cliff Cavern. Fluorite (also called fluorspar) is a halide mineral composed of calcium fluoride. One of the most famous of the older-known localities of fluorite is Castleton, where, under the name of Derbyshire Blue John, purple-blue fluorite was extracted from several mines/caves, including the famous Blue John Cavern. During the 19th century, this attractive fluorite was mined for its ornamental value. The name derives from French bleu et jaune (blue and yellow) characterising its colour. Blue John is now scarce, and only a few hundred kg are mined each year for ornamental use. Mining still takes place in both the Blue John Cavern and the nearby Treak Cliff Cave.

By the time we reached Lose Hill, the ominous weather had moved in and it began to rain. Although the map indicates a more obvious path down Fiddle Clough towards Edale End from Lose Hill, we chose a not too comfortable scramble down the hillside west of this, with the result that we found ourselves fenced off. Though we eventually found a rail-line crossing via a bridge just south of Carr House Farm near the Hope Road, we ended up walking along the road (with no hard shoulder) towards Edale End, as this was the only  way we would find a way across the River Noe. Passing through National Trust owned property at Upper Fulwood Farm, the map indicated a Roman Road just below the ridge behind the farm, with a path up to it. On the other side of the ridge lay Ladybower Reservoir. We stopped for a tea break as the sun came out, enjoying some of Maeve's delicious baked cake. After passing to where the Roman Road led off to the right, we reached a clearing with the landscape covered in ferns, as the path diverged into two. We followed the lower path (realised later as a mistake), blocked by a number of sheep who soon gave way.